User:JoeBrock997

Acrylic box

Acrylic or polycarbonate dome skylights come is several sizes today. The traditional ones, however, are square to rectangular in shape, and run about 5" in height. Their width and length could be anywhere from 12" to 36", and so are 1/8" thick. These domes can be mounted onto wooden curbs (2x2" to 2x6"), around that this roof shingles are caulked or thin-metal flashed to stop any rain leakage around them. These domes can also be surface mounted directly onto the tar paper and wooden sheeting directly underneath the shingles. In the latter case, the dome's surrounding shingles themselves are directly laid over its flat outside flanges similar towards the way the shingles are commonly laid in the flat metal of roof vents, furnace stacks, sewer vents therefore forth. This installation minimizes the dome's height. Problem. Either way, or no matter how the domes are mounted, they are able to and can produce unwanted condensation and similar leaks even though they come with an inner plastic shield within them. These domes will also be vulnerable to being cracked from large hail, fallen tree branches, earthquakes, or careless roofers. When these events happen, the skylights will leak rain water also as well as forming moisture. Solution. Build and put in a shallow-box-like 5-1/2"-high hard transparent cover over the dome about the roof. This cover will act like a storm window does by using the brunt of temperature change along with the formation of many condensation. For this article, a 20" square dome (which features a 1" flange on them of the 18"-square dome itself), 5" high, and surface mounted directly for the roof sheeting will probably be used as the example to become covered with the box-like storm cover. Similar covers can be built proportionally for other dome sizes. Materials and tools (total cost for parts: $50-90, depending on the availability from the acrylic sheet). One 2x6x96" pressure-treated board ($5) One 22x22" sheet of heavy 0.22" thick acrylic plexiglass ($25-60, depending about the cut sizes available in the outlet). In the event the piece has to be cut from a larger sheet, leave the protective films unpeeled on both sides of the sheet before sawing is done. Use a clear, crisp fine-tooth saw blade. Otherwise, allow outlet make the grade to size for you. Twelve #12x3" Philips screws 20 to 30 - #8x1" Philips drywall screws (wide head) One small tube clear silicone caulk ($4) Two tubes silicone window/door caulk similar colored to the roof shingles ($8) Four perpendicularly flat 2-1/2" L-shaped brackets ($5) Eight #10x1" wood screws (for attaching the L-brackets on the cover frame) Eight #10x1-1/2 to 2" wood screws (for attaching the frame's L-brackets for the roof with the shingles) One quart oil-base water-proof paint similar colored to the roof shingles ($4) Tools: electric circular saw, electric drill, bits, Philips screwdriver, caulking gun, putty knife, rat-tail file, paintbrush Cover construction. 1. Cut the 2x6" board into four square-cornered pieces: 2 22"-long ones and 2 19"-long ones. 2. Assemble the 22" square box-like frame by sealing/securing the four corners with all the silicone window/door water-proofing caulk and 3" screws. 3. On what will probably be the lower-end from the bottom side, utilize the file to generate a minimum of three half-moon groves for moisture drainage. 4. Paint the two inside and outside of the wooden frame. Let dry. 5. Position the acrylic plexiglass flush over the frame. 6. Mark on the plexiglass in which the screw holes will go, about 5" apart round the top from the frame. 7. At each mark, drill a hole from the plexiglass (only) wider than the drywall screw. 8. Then, by employing a narrow bit, drill holes 1/2" deep in to the wood frame dead-center through the plexiglass holes. 9. Remove the plexiglass from your frame, noting the way fits onto the frame. 10. Brush away any plastic or wood shavings from your frame and plexiglass. 11. With the silicone caulk, add a narrow bead lengthwise on either side of the frame's drill holes around it. 12. Carefully replace the plexiglass atop the frame, aligning it for the original drill holes accordingly. 13. Install the screws to medium tightness, so to not crack the plexiglass. The caulk will flatten and spread relating to the plexiglass and also the frame, sealing it. 14. Add at the very least one flat L-shaped bracket to them with the frame flush to the bottom side with the 1" wood screws. 15. Paint the brackets. Cover installation (the easy way). 1. While using safety precautions, carry the completed cover up for the roof, assuming the roof is really a low-pitch and safe to walk on. 2. Center it in the dome skylight, square to square. 3. Attach the dome towards the roof with the shingles with the 1-1/2 to 2" wood screws, depending around the thickness from the shingles. 4. Seal underneath side of the upper end and both sides from the cover using the silicone window/door caulk. Seal the brackets and screws the identical way. Leave underneath side with the lower end unsealed for drainage. It can be a storm window. 5. If necessary, touch-up the frame and brackets with paint. By installing the coverage atop the shingles, the wood sheeting under the shingles can be protected from any moisture damage. This placement also elevates the coverage in the dome for adequate air space. This cover will assume the formation of almost all of the condensation that might otherwise occur within the dome, none that will allow it to be with the dome to the house nor beneath the shingles. It'll also protect the dome from hail, fallen tree branches, as well as other damages. To learn a a bit more about skylight types and their maintenance, see these sites.